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Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin Throttle Body Replacement. |
The throttle body on the Mitsubishi Pinin has been a problem area and a common fault especially on the earlier models. Amongst the symptoms are the vehicle losing power especially when climbing uphill. The throttle body starts to gather dust and restricts air flow through it causing the vehicle to judder and stall and generally lose power whilst driving which becomes worse when the vehicle has to exert more power whilst driving uphill.
Amongst the cures, you could try removing and cleaning the throttle body properly to remove all the sediment and dust gathered up over time and see if that makes a difference. If a general clean up of the throttle body doesn’t seem to make a difference, there could be an electrical fault with the electrical components attached with the throttle body in which case, you can either get an electrician to check the components or purchase a reconditioned throttle body which normally comes with a 2 year warranty.
This guide should go some way in helping you remove and replace the throttle body on your pinin and hopefully save some money in the process.
The top engine cover is held in place by 4 bolts which need removing.
The throttle body can bee seen on the driver side under the engine cover.
The Air Flow system is held in place by some bolts with one end connected to the throttle body top and the other side conencted to the air flow pipe leading towards the air filter box.
The top air flow system can be removed completely by loosening the screws on both sides. Removing the box makes it easier to work on the throttle body.
The throttle body is held in place by 6 big bolts, 4 of which hold the throttle body down and 2 bolts are connected to a bracket. There are 2 electrical plug connections and 2 rubber hoses connecting to the throttle all of which need to be disconnected.
The electrical connection on the right hand side is a bit tricky to remove and requires you to insert a thin straight headed screw driver into the metal clip as shown in the pic. The metal clip should be gently pushed outwards making sure it doesn’t flick off. Once the metal clip has moved about a cm. away from the plug, you can grab it with your fingers and remove it completely. The electrical connector should now lift up.
The 2 hoses connected to the throttle body need disconnecting using a pair of pliers to squeeze the metal pipe holders and slowly shaking them up and down and moving them backwards at the same time.
Once all the connections and bolts holding the throttle body have been removed, it can be lifted upwards slowly to remove it. There is a gasket just below the throttle body and the base it sits on. It best to grab the gasket as soon as it becomes visible to it doesnt drop down whilst the throttle body is being removed.
Once the throttle body has been cleaned up properly or you have decieded to go for the reconditioned one, the installation process is just the reverse of the removal process. One thing to note is to make sure the gasket on the throttle body is in place before the bolts are tightened. The way this can be ensured is to to hold the gasket in place under the throttle body and insert the 4 bolts in a way that they go through the throttle body plus the gasket holes for the same bolts. You also need to make sure you put the bracket holding the throttle body and the pipe connector bracket on the other side in place with the bolts going through them. Once everything is connected up including the top air flow system, you can start the car up and hopefully the engine should run smoothly.
This entry was posted on Saturday, October 11th, 2008 and is filed under Mitsubishi DIY. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.
Excellent, thorough, but still simple instructions. It helped a lot. Thank you very much.
Richard
Hi guys, I removed my throttle body and cleaned it, but now i put it back i’m getting an engine light at idle…..need help
Hi Mark. which light is it exactly, red or yellow? and does it go off once you start driving?
It a yellow engine check light that keeps blinking. after cleaning the throttle body the jeep Idle perfect between 750-1000 RPM, but after a few seconds/minutes the engine light would come on which causes a reduce in power, I have a workshop manual for the pinin/cherokee/pajero; to clean the throttle body I removed the unit and also removed the TPS from the Throttle body, I marked the position before removing and disassembling the unit, after re-installing everything that’s when i start getting the Engine light, today i played around with it for a while , and I adjust the TPS mid-way on the adjustment screws, and it seems to run fine for now, tomorrow i’ll let the jeep idle for about 15-20 mins and see what’s the results
Do let us know how you got on. I believe there is also a light in the dash like the airbag light which switches on once you remove the electrical conenction from the throttle body and can only be reset/ taken out by the dealership or anyone else who has the resetting equipment.
Hi im having the same problem for the 2nd time this year, back in march I fitted a 2nd hand throttle body which solved the problem. The one i took off was really coked up. This time the Throttle body is as clean as when I put it on back in march, the jeep has done 2K miles since I fitted it. I dont think the throttle body is to blame this time but the engine simtoms are the same. Im having trouble finding another 2nd hand throttle body to rule it out, and im sure im not folking out 600 bucks for a new one lol. Does anyone else know what the problem might be? cheers john my email is djrichards99 at hotmail.com
Hi John,
perhaps the spark plugs need replacing or there is a crack in the leads somewhere? Cracks are hard to find so best way is to start the car, open the bonnet and while the car is running, look out for any sparks coming from any of the leads. You mujst wait till its a bit dark obviously for better spark spotting.
Im going to change the plugs today, and if that dont work I wait till its dark to check for sparks from the leads. Thank you
Well I changed the plugs, does run a bit better no engine light on yet, but still not idling smoth and a slight missfire when driving. There no leads as such to check for cracks or sparks, just wires going to what I think is a coil on top of each plug. Im thinking if one of these coils are breaking down.
Yes that could also be a possibility I suppose. A last resort could be to either take it to an electrician or the dreaded Dealership who charge a fixed fee for a diagnostic test. They can then advise you what the exact cause is. You don’t have to get the issue resolved by the dealership after diagnosis, just find a cheap garage who can do the same job for you.
Try to be present there yourself when the diagnosis is being carried out because quite a few of the dealerships I know of try and scam you into buying additional stuff which isn’t really required.
Hi, im thinking of buying a diagnostic tool off ebay. seen one for £60. I get it sorted if its the lst thing I do lol
Good idea, it’s sure to save you a fair bit of money in the long run. I believe the dealership charges atleast £35 per diagnostic test so definitely good to have one. One thing to note, some of these diagnostic tools can be used for many different makes/ models not just for Mitsubishi so do read the description on the item. Always best to have a tool with a wider use as it can come in handy with other models you may purchase in the future. Good luck with the diagnosis and do keep us updated
Finally I got a self fault code tester on ebay, Fault code still pointed to the throttle body. Found someone on ebay who rebuilds these throttle bodys, cost 200 quid but its solved the problem and they give me a 2 year warranty which is going to give me some piece of mind. Thanks for all the help from the people on this site. Cheers
Hi there, I have removed my throttle body on my mitsubishi shogun pinin cleaned it up and replaced it however when i start the engine it starts and turns over but i have no acceleration at all the pedal is just dead, any ideas where i might have gone wrong..?
Thanks
does the pedal feel completely lifeless? I mean is it all loose and just presses all the way down without any effort? If so, you may want to check the connections for the pedal as something may have come off.
Hi Foxebrown, It is most probably the magnetic motor mechanism or the throttle position sensor in the throttle body (TPS). It is best to get your unit rebuilt, as new ones costs around £600. There are people on ebay who rebuild them for around 250 to 300 quid, I had mine rebuilt for just under 200 last month (Do Haddle) and works well and with a 2 year warranty I think this is better than getting a 2nd one as I learned the had way, It wont be long b4 you get the same problem with a 2nd hand one.
regards John
@ Automotive. Thanks for the reply. The pedal is completely lifeless and I can press it down to the floor with no effort and nothing happens. I dont know how to check the connections to the pedal, furthermore I removed the throttle body as per the instructions above and to my knowledge did not interfere with anything with the pedal. I have spoke to a mechanic at Mitsubishi he suggested that I turn the engine on, switch on all the electrical’s like light window wipers lights etc, etc, to put a load on the engine whilst idleing leave on for 10 mins then switch off leave for 5 mins restart with the electrics off and the engine should reset itself, however that hasnt worked. The engine runs smoothly probably at a slightly higher idle level but dosent do what it did before i cleaned the throttle body (high and low revs and go into safety mode) the idle is consistent its just that I have no acceleration whatsoever.
@John. Thanks for the reply John, The problem seems to be going from one thing to the other, before it seemed that the butterfly was sticking hence the low and high inconsistent revs. since the clean up the clean up the engine is ticking over nicely except for no acceleration. I’m lost and really want to exhaust all options before I get a recon throttle body as I would be dissapointed to go that route and I have the same problem.
I have now removed the throttle body for the second time.
@Foxebrown - if the idle speed is OK, I doubt its your throttle body.
The accelerator pedal being lifeless means that a structure like a resistance spring has popped out. I’m sorry I don’t have a pinin here now to check exactly what mechanism it has on the pedal BUT the principle should be the same as most other cars.
You need to open the drivers door, kneel down ( don’t propose to the pinin ) and then inspect the pedal area. There has to be a feature which offers resistance to the pedal when pressed down, that feature is obviously not working for you at the moment. A typical accelerator pedal pic shown here ( http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/77fsm/accelerator%20pedal%201.gif )
Does the throttle pedal come back up on its own after you push it down. If yes get your on board computer checked for fault codes, (fault code reader can be bought on ebay for 40 quid) if the fault code is p121 it is the throttle body that is at fault.
Good Day, Guys. I have a pajero IO GDI 1999, I had the same problem afew months ago you can check the previous posts and you’ll see, however I removed the throttle body and cleaned it and that didn’t worked much. most times when a scan tool gives you a code to the TPS it may not be that the problem is the Throttle body, on the Throttle body their is the Throttle position sensor which is black on the front of the throttle body and throttle position controller is at the rear of the throttle body, now when you press the pedal a signal is sent from the ECU to the Throttle position controller to open the air intake valve and the throttle position sensor now sends the feed back signal to the ECU to say how much the valve is opened and compares that with the Pedal sensor, if there is any dissagreement between these components you may be an engine light, the vehicle will not accelerate beyond 3000RPM and the IDLE may be rough.I have the electronic manuals for the pajero, IO, Montero,pinin 1998-2003. feel free to indicate if you guys would like to have a copy and we’ll trade info.
MARK
@Automitive. Thanks for getting back to me. The original problem I was having was the car was over revving up and down with the yellow engine light on then after 10 mins the yellow light would start flashing and the car would go into safe mode (what the mitsubishi dealer calls it) i would only be able to drive at about 20mph slower up hill and would speed up down hill. Took it to a dealer who said it was the throttle body but he wasn’t sure it could also be the injectors, they said it would cost me 1,500 pounds for a new throttle body and if it wasn’t that then we would have to change the injectors, basically in total the bill would amount to 4,000 pounds + vat. I lost faith in the dealer because he charged me 120 pounds to diagnose he fault and still up to now told me what the exact problem was. Hence i started looking on these forums and found this one, when I took the throttle body off it was really dirty and the butterfly was sticking and wasn’t moving smoothly so I assumed that was the problem, cleaned it up and got it moving smoothly, put it back but i messed up somewhere. The accelerator pedal does spring back and when I do press it even tho it doesn’t rev up the engine I can still hear a sort of humming when i press it. I can get another throttle body, however i would really like to figure and be sure that it is that whats causing the problems. I don’t know maybe the TPS is out and needs adjusting.
I don’t mind trying different things as I quite enjoy these dilemmas and finding a solution. Any more Ideas..?
Thanks
@John, Thanks for getting back to me John, see what I’ve written above. its starting to form a book,lol
Thanks
Hi Foxebrown, the simtums you discribe are the exact ones i had. Starts and goes in safe mode then only drives about 25 mph, I drove like this for 20 miles lol. There is a throttle body advertised on ebay (ebay number 270520378466 ) for £25 The guy selling it claims it came of a running engine. It might be worth you getting this to see if it is the throttle body, Which i deffinatly think it is. The auction only 3 days left to run so be quick if you want it.
p.s the butterfly are allways stiff as they are driven by electric to open and close, as described by mark wilkinson above. I’d never go to the main dealers as they wanted £200 + vat just for the throttle possition sensor (TPS) I had my throttle body rebuilt for £200 with new sensors including the (TPS) and it looks like new with 2 year warranty.
@ Mark Wilkinson
Hi I would love to have any information you have on these throttle bodys. cheers
Hi Guys, One thing i forgot to mention is that when i removed the throttle body I also took apart the magnet housing to check the magnet wasn’t cracked (which was a possibility according to the Mitsubishi dealer) and also I removed the TPS from the main body of the throttle body so I probarly messed up all the positioning as well. I have taken it off again an put it back on and making sure it is springy before i tighten the two srews, this might have bee affecting the acce;eration as the sensor previous would not flik back to its original positioning.
gotta keep trying.
Thanks
Hi Mark, thanks for your input, to have the manual would be a great help for me..
Ok, Guys the accelerator problem has been fixed, The TPS was in the wrong positioning, when you mount it back to the throttle body it should be a bit springy left to right before you tighten the screws. However although I no longer have the inconsistent revving up and down and I have acceleration, the yellow engine light is flashing and I can only rev with limited power.
@John, sorry i missed your posts, Yeah the one on ebay I’ve ordered it today,
Thanks
Great news Guys, Glad to know that we all made valuable input into this TPS fix, my contact is : markadamas@Hotmail.com. I also use Teamviewer for transferring files. I would advice you to mark the TPS position with a permanent marker.
Mark
change the throttle boby
Just waiting for delivery of throttle body from ebay seller, will post results once installed. while Im under the bonnet im going to do a service as well, i,e change oil, oil filter sparks plug, air filter any thing else i need to know to do..
Thanks
I did all that plus change the plugs, plugs are a tenner each plus u need a long reach plug socket to reach the plug as normal sockets are to wide and to short, another tenner from halfords.
Hi Foxebrown, Did you get the throttle body off ebay the one I reconmended to you?
@John, Hi john, funny you should ask, I paid for it last last Friday and got a message with a tracking code informing me it will be delivered by a company called my hermes. I have used the tracking code but the information hasn’t changed in 5 days and the write up on this company my hermes is not good at all. so just have to wait for delivery.
Hi Guys, Ok, I received the throttle body today from ebay and replaced it and hey presto! works fine problem solved. Now I’m gonna change the front and rear brake pads and oil, filters and spark plugs. Thank you all for your input In would of really struggled without your input.
Many Thanks.
@Foxebrown - glad to hear that.. hopefully this page should also help others.
Good to hear, common problem those throttle bodies. Make’s you think if the manufactures do these things deliberately so people pay their extortionate prices to put them right.
By the way, I forgot to mention that I first took the car to Mitsubishi who charged me 95 pounds to have a look at it, their diagnostics was that it could be the throttle body and it cost me 1,500 + 95 labour to replace or I would also need to replace the injectors as well. In total to get my car back on the road they told me it would costs 4,000 pounds for a new throttle body, injector system and the cost of labour. thanks to this site and a bit of luck accquiring a throttle body on ebay for 47 pounds including delivery, it has cost me 142 including the diagnostics from the dealer to get my car on the road a saving of 3,858 pounds.
One again thanks guys
When I picked my pinin up (from mitsubishi main dealer 150 miles away from my home) I drove it down the road and got most of the above symptoms. I had to call the dealer to come & get me! It was the throttle body. It was replaced with a new not reconditioned one. This was 3 years ago. Low & behold this weekend it has happened again. How long should a throttle body last? Does anyone know. Maybe I should contact the dealer again. Hope someone knows the answers to help a damsel in distress!!
hi Shandy,
If the symptoms are exactly the same as last time, it most likely will be the throttle body. It does need replacing every 2-3 years or even sooner some times. You can contact the dealers again but I doubt they will replace it free this time
Hi Automotive
Thanks for you response. I was a bit worried that it would be the same problem. Ill give my local mechanic a call. I think its likely I have a big bill coming up!! Time for a change of wheels I think
Hi Readers.
After reading sandy’s blog I’ve decided to sell my jeep next month when I’ve renewed the mot. I know this is a common fault on these jeeps but it’s too expensive to keep on replacing the throttle body. I will be much gutted to do this as I love the jeep, as it’s great to drive on and off road. Does anyone know of a better 4X4 to buy??? I was thinking of a Suzuki Grand Vitara.
Any ideas
P.S Before I sell it I need to buy a rear seat (bottom half). Does anyone know where I can get one.
Regards John
Hi Guys,
We have decided to trade ours in as well, it’s done 81k and it wasn’t only the throttle body that gave problems the fuel filler neck pipe was totally rotted out and leaking petrol when we went to fill up so that had to be replaced. getting rid of ours before anything else goes wrong as we have been quite lucky in repairing it ourselves whereas repairs would of come into the thousands and we would of had to scrap it, now at least we can get 1,750 pounds trade in on Mercedes CLK convertible.
Good Luck
Nice one. but i all ready got a convertible, not as nice as yours thou lol mines a astra twin top sport. But im looking for another 4×4 to have fun in as well as day to day trips.
Hi Foxebrown
I had ther same problem with my fuel filler pipe too. I guess this must be another common problem. Bad designing I think as it sits behind a plastic cover which keeps all the water, mud salt etc stuck between it & the pipe. Think i’ll buy a push bike!
There has been a lot of talk about how car makers purposely keep certain common faults in their models to guarantee some business for their part sales departments. It is definitely believable but there is a very thin line between having this part sales guarantee and keeping the customers who buy that model on your side.
Mitsubishi will keep the faulty throttle bodies on the model until they see a big drop in the profits from throttle body sales or no body bothers to buy the pinin. There’s still a lot of people out there who will buy the pinin just because its a 4×4 at a good price and from a well known 4×4 maker Mitsubishi.
Hi Guys, I think if your looking for a 4×4 then get one where people have over 60 - 70 years making them like Jeep or Land Rover. These manufacturers have loads of experience in the design and build of these vehicles whereas all the others are still experiencing problems and faults that Jeep and land Rover had over 50 + years ago and were able to rectify. We used to have a Jeep Grand Cherokee and it never ever gave us problems we had to change it reluctantly due to the cost of petrol it was a 4ltr. So if your looking for a reliable 4×4 then these two is a must, plus the others wouldnt survive off road anyway.
Good Luck..
Mitsubishi made their first car in 1917 and started specializing in 4×4 soon afterwards so these guys have been at the forefront in making 4×4 models. As mentioned above, I think it’s more to do with purposely introducing common faults to make some money for the parts department.
I had my car put onto a diagnostic machine today, and yes low & behold it was the throttle body! (also a wiring fault) The wiring fault I can accept, but the throttle body is avery bitter pill to swallow (see earlier posts regarding a new part fitted) I called Mitsubishi who sold me the car as they fitted not a reconditioned part but a brand new throttle body…………….or so I was told at the time. Turns out after speaking to them today that they lied when they told me it was a new part. They took the old throttle body off & sent it for repair!! I am furious as they were told at the time of the original fault that we did not want a reconditioned part fitted and if it was not a new one we would ask for our money back and take our custom elsewhere. It just goes to show, you cannot even trust a main dealer. To make matters worse the car has only done 27000 since the part was fitted!!! I am distraught & very very angry
Hi guys and girls I have a 2003 pinin with a rotten fuel filler pipe. Where can I get one from? preferably not the main dealer and would rather not get a replacement from a breaker.
Thanks
this one maybe a dealer part only
Hi Anon, Please let us know how you get on with solving your fuel pipe problem as I have a 2001 model and haven’t come across this problem b4, so I guess it’s something to expect in the future.
Regards John
@Anon, Hi Anon, you can only get a fuel filler neck pipe from a dealer ours cost 159+vat, however i replaced it my self, there are 2 screws where the nozzle goes into the pipe further down the pipe there is about anothe 2m bolts the the pipe connects to 2 rubber hoses a slim hose and a fat one hose (which feeds fuel into the tank) clipped together by clips, you would only need a pliers to unclip this and pull the old pipe off i would recommend changing the clips as well because if the fuel filler pipe is corroded so will these clips be as well.
I found it pretty easy and saved me 200+ from getting the dealer to do it for me. in fact i saved nearly 4,000 pounds of work that was quoted by a dealer. i did everything myself for under 400 quid.
Good Luck
Thank you. I have fibre glassed the pipe temporarily. I will bite the bullet and get a new one.
Thanks ATB
@ Anon - if you decide to go DIY, would be great to take some pictures of the process and email them to us. we can get them put on here under a new title. It’s bound to help many others facing the same issue. thanks!
@Anon. We used an old rubber hose shoved inside the filler pipe but the fuel was going in absolutely slow. If your using fibre glass be very cautious for spillage..Good luck.
Thanks for the replies and advice. If I do it myself I will take some photos.
Cheers
My Pinin is on a 51 plate, 57000 on the clock. the fault shows as throttle body circuit A & C. Once reset it will run fine. The only sign of a problem is a slight ‘hic-up’ when the accelerator is pushed down, the eng man lights up and limits the revs. I have cleaned the throttle body and this did the job for a few weeks but the problem has come back and the clean fix does not last. The fault mainly happens the day after cleaning the throttle body - when the engine has cooled - as soon as I start the fault returns. Do you think it is the body or could it be something else? The only other problem I am aware of is the front ignition coil spring is corroded and not sparking as clean as possible.
Check the fault code, if it’s p1221 then you need a new or refurbished throttle body. You could get a 2nd hand one like i did, it cost me £80 but fault came back a few months later. You can get your TB refurbished by a company on ebay. cheeper than a new one which costs about 600 quid.
Thanks John, I was getting p1221 and have sent throttle body to ECU Testing, Nottingham - They phone and said body was working fine and only charge an inspection fee (Very fair only £35 ex vat) and returned body next day, great service. I refitted body and second hand coil and have done 180 miles so far without problem. Reading other comments I also found a rusty hole in the filler neck. You don’t get this sort of advise and help from a dealer. Thanks to all concerned.
I have a 2002 shogun pinin, again filler pipe rotted so cleaned out tank and replaced pipe, however at same time will not rev over 2k took to dealer who did diagnostic which said either coil or plug 3cly. bought 2 second hand coils and tried but just same. thinking now either throttle body which have cleaned and glued back before or high pressure fuel pump or injectors clogged?
Hi Karl, funny enough our fuel filler neck pipe and throttle body went at around the same time, however i wouldnt say you have that problem as yet. The reason it wouldnt rev over 2k is because the engine sets itself in safe mode. lets hope its not the fuel injectors or throttle body. when you cleaned the throttle body and replaced was it working ok after..?
It is the magnetic mechanism in the throttle body, change the throttle body.
after changing the throttle body, change the car and never buy a pinin again.
I buy it off you, i need the spare parts lol
Hi there,
I’ve had all the problems stated above on my Pinin 2.0l GDI 2002. All came about at the same time: Fuel filler pipe, full exhaust system, throttle body, High Pressure pump. Gutted to say the least. Repaired all the parts for around £800, except the HP Pump. Cannot find a second anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get one, or does anyone have one for sale??
Regards, Al.
Having changed a throttle body are there set voltage levels for tickover and high end? I have been told that there are but nobody seems to know what they should be.
Hi Andy.
If you can find out how to fix that problem I’d love to know, Please let us know on here cheers. I will do some digging my-self.
If you do find out the voltage levels for takeover and high end, How do you expect to change the values on your throttle body?